Starting from Scratch
Author: Robbie Lannon
Posted on: Aug 29, 2025
Building a new wardrobe can feel like a massive undertaking, especially if you’re starting from the ground up. I know, because I had to rebuild mine entirely in 2020 after losing 50 pounds. One of the best resources I found was Reddit’s r/malefashionadvice’s “Basic Bastard” wardrobe. It’s an excellent starting point that works for just about any guy. I’d make some minor modifications, which I’ll talk about below, but let’s go through the basic setup and why it works so well.
Tops
T-shirts: Start with solid color crew necks in white, gray, and black (in that order). Grab yourself 1-3 each, depending on how often you plan to wear them.
These are the best to start with because not only are they the most basic piece of clothing a guy can wear, but they’re also the most versatile if you nail the fit and color. They can stand great on their own, but also can be layered to create more interesting looks. Get a couple in a neutral color like white or gray, and you’re set up for success.
Oxford Cloth Button Downs (OCBD): Solid color white and light blue. First addition after these is either a subtle stripe or another light color. These are timeless. Dress them up for work with dress pants and shoes, or down with a pair of jeans and roll the sleeves up. The solid colors are best to start with because they’ll pair with everything besides a full tuxedo.
Bottoms
Jeans: Reddit recommends one pair only, and that’s a dark wash unripped pair. Personally, I say get 2 pairs, one light and one dark. If you decide to only get one pair it MUST be the dark wash.
Chinos: commonly known as khakis. Get 1-2 pairs of these in neutral colors like beige/khaki, navy, gray, or olive green. Flat fronts here, no pleats. Chinos are awesome because they’re as versatile as jeans, but feel a tiny bit dressier.
Shorts: Find these in a similar fabric and color to the chino pants. Depending on where you live, you might want 3-5 pairs. Flat front again, no pleats, and no cargo shorts. Keep these simple and sleek, and keep the fit dialed in.
Layers
This is where I’d add a touch more flexibility. Reddit recommends a sweater OR a sweatshirt, but I think you need both. In this order (if you’re ready to get more than 1): Gray, navy, maroon, oatmeal. Gray is going to be your most versatile color, followed by navy. Get those first and you’ll always have a layer that works with your shirts and pants.
Outerwear
Outerwear is where things get tricky, especially if you live in a place with unpredictable weather. In colder climates, prioritize a good winter coat — think pea coat or parka. For those random cooler days, a lighter jacket like a bomber or jean jacket will work. And let’s not forget a good raincoat for those stormy days.
If you’re somewhere with extreme weather, a solid winter coat should be at the top of your list. And for those in more temperate regions, layering up with a hoodie or jacket might be enough.
Shoes
Sneakers. Plain, white, leather sneakers. I say this as someone who loves to wear Converse every chance I can, get a pair of plain white leathers first. They’re way easier to dress up than canvas, and still are plenty casual with shorts.
Boots: mid-to-dark brown leather boots. I recommend Thursday Boot Company’s Captains or similar. These have a classic look without being too flashy. If you don’t like the height of one like the Captain, try a desert boot (a.k.a. chukka). Thinner sole like a dress shoe, and the boot only comes up to your ankle. A good pair of boots can elevate any outfit, and leather is stylish and durable. A simple yet timeless boot will go anywhere.
Accessories
Belt to go with your boots. It doesn’t have to match exactly, but try to get as close as you can to the color leather of your boots.
Watch: metal bracelet diver style watch. Yes, the James Bond watch. It’s a classic for a reason. Dress it down with shorts and a t-shirt or up with a suit and it never looks out of place.
Why This Works
All of these pieces are basic, boring, and they tend toward neutrals. That’s by design. With this limited color palette, all these pieces become interchangeable. Every pant works with every shirt, and the only things that don’t go together are the boots and shorts. Unless you’re starting entirely over, you likely have something in your current wardrobe to fit some of these categories.
Now, to take it a step further, get your fit dialed in. Pants should be a regular fit, maybe a taper/slim fit. But that’s only if you hit the proportions exactly right for a brand’s template. Shirts and jackets should have the shoulder seam hit right at the point of your shoulder joint. The torso of shirts should only have about an inch of extra fabric around, and long sleeves should stop at the base of your palm. Pants should never need a belt to stay up, and should have a straight to slim cut, depending on your legs. Since I’ve been lifting weights since 2005, I typically end up with Levi’s 541 (Athletic Taper) or 505 (Straight) for my jeans, and try to find pants with similar cuts as I need them. Dockers Straight or Classic Fits tend to do well for me, but your mileage will vary. It will also depend on how much of your shoe you want covered. Currently (as of 2025) the Old Money trend is still in, and fits are getting more relaxed and baggier. Classic Menswear enthusiasts will tell you that your pants leg opening should cover two-thirds of your shoe, but I don’t think it must be that much. You absolutely can, but this is a point for taste. If you like to show off more of your shoes, do it. If you’d rather let the pants be the focal point, have them with a wider leg opening.
This wardrobe formula isn’t just about what to buy, it’s about what works for you. Think of this as a checklist, a base set to build on. From here, it’s easy to add personal touches and experiment with different styles. Just remember to keep it simple, versatile, well-fitted, and above all, intentional.
Tags: style, fundamentals